Sunday, June 14, 2009

What price beauty?

In this economy, we have all found ways to get our beauty and fashion fixes for less, relying on low-cost alternatives for everything from pricey jeans to expensive shampoo. Still, there are always some things that are just too good to give up. Check out these staff picks to find out our current favorite affordable luxuries and must-have indulgences.

OLD FAVORITE: Lancôme Flash Bronzer Airbrush, $28 for 4 ounces

NEW FAVORITE: Neutrogena Micro Mist Tanning, $10.99 for 5.3 ounces

This drugstore self-tanning spray brings home the gold at less than half the price. The odorless quick-dry formula offers a sunny day-at-the-beach faux glow without the mess or harmful rays.

MUST-HAVE SPLURGE: Renova (prescription), about $120-$140 for 60 grams (Costco)

This wrinkle reducer is not your typical plump and pamper skin soufflé. Its most beneficial ingredient is basic science. The emollient form of tretinoin (also known as Retin-A), not only sloughs off old skin cells to diminish fine lines, but it actually stimulates the growth of collagen. Drugstore retinoid products are just cheap imitators.
-- R.J. Ignelzi

OLD FAVORITE: Philosophy Amazing Grace Perfumed Shave Gel, $15

NEW FAVORITE: Suave Professionals Humectant Conditioner, $2-$3

I used Amazing Grace because the great smell dulled my senses into thinking that maybe leg-shaving was less drudgery. But on the advice of a girlfriend, I traded scents for cents and found that hair conditioner works great as a frugal follicle de-fuzzer. Really, no smell can make this chore less of a snore.

MUST-HAVE SPLURGE: Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk Foundation, $58

There's no Armani hanging in my closet, but I don't feel well-dressed if I'm not wearing this award-winning fab foundation. All the skin superlatives – flawless finish, dewy feel, etc. – fit this makeup perfectly to its last decadent drop. People will compliment your skin, not your makeup.
-- Susan Shroder

OLD FAVORITE: Tigi S-Factor Smoothing Shampoo, $24 for 6.76 ounces

NEW FAVORITE: Garnier Fructis Haircare Fortifying Shampoo, Sleek & Shine, $4 for 13 ounces

Let's get this straight: Both products do wonders for taming frizzy, curly hair, but for the price, you can't beat Garnier's offering. Combine it with the Garnier's Sleek & Shine Conditioner, which also goes for around $4, and you are on your way to the silken hair of your dreams.

MUST-HAVE SPLURGE: Benefit You Rebel Lite SPF 15 Tinted Moisturizer, $30 for 1.7 ounces

Not sure if this actually counts as a splurge since Benefit is known for its frugal yet funky cosmetics. Still, plunking down $30 in one pop can be a dicey proposition in this economy. The good news is this product does triple duty, moisturizing as well as providing sun protection and sheer cover. Also, the small tube should last you several months.
-- Jennifer Davies

OLD FAVORITE: Frederic Fekkai Glossing Shampoo, $35 for 16 ounces

NEW FAVORITE: Suave Professionals Sleek Shampoo, $2.50 for 14.5 ounces

Suave is among the most economical (and best-selling) drugstore shampoos. Though I can't say for certain if it really adds luster to dry hair, it smells nice and seems to work just fine. Best of all, you can buy Suave for under $1 if it's on sale at the grocery store and you have a coupon.

MUST-HAVE SPLURGE: Kérastase Resistance Expanseur Extra-Corps, 3.3 ounces for $29.

Spray this on your hair from the roots to the ends after towel-drying. It adds a light hold without feeling sticky like hair spray, helps control frizz and adds volume when drying. Maybe I desperately need it to counteract the effects of shampooing with Suave, but this product works wonders.
-- Jenifer Goodwin

OLD FAVORITE: James jeans, $180 at Neiman Marcus

NEW FAVORITE: Old Navy jeans, $30

There's never been anything that fits as well as James jeans, but Old Navy comes the closest. They have a variety of different styles, from boot cut to skinny, and the price won't make you feel guilty for having more than one pair.

MUST-HAVE SPLURGE: Phytomer Ogenage Initial facial lotion, $79 for 1.6 ounces at Salon Bordeaux

I don't wear much makeup, so it's important that I have good skin. I've tried drugstore moisturizers, but they caused breakouts and left my face feeling oily.
-- Nina Garin

This is one in an occasional series looking at affordable luxuries

Holiday make-up and skin care

Tiana rocks poolside chic in our swimwear shoot. If you’ve got darker skin and you’re fretting about your holiday beauty regime, here are our top tips

Get Tiana’s look
Our make-up artist Shani went for old-school 50s glamour. Using W7 products she created sultry, smouldering eyes by applying a wash of Perfect Eye Shadow in Burnt Plum, £3.95, across Tiana’s eyelids. She then added definition by working Gel Eyeliner in Blackest Black, £2.95, into the base of her lashes. For sex kitten lashes she finished with two coats of Massive Lashes Volumising Mascara, £3.95. To create stylish brows, she used Deluxe Eyebrow Pencil in Black, £2.95, and as no starlet is complete without a perfect pout she finished the look with Hydrating Matt Lipstick in Scarlet Fever, £1.95, applied with a brush.

Make-up
• Holiday eye make-up can be tricky on darker skin because paler summery colours don’t give enough definition. But you don’t have to stick with black. Try olive, plum or blue for a different look, or go metallic. ‘Metallics are great on black skin,’ says make-up artist Shani Robertson. ‘It reflects the natural skin tone and really sets it off.’ We love Gosh Eyeliner in Aqua Life, £4.40.
• You can get away with really strong colours on lips. ‘Go for plums, red- and blue-based colours or coral,’ says Shani. Sleek True Colour Lipstick in Cherry, £3.22, is a perfect summery shade.
• On cheeks, plums, strong reds, chocolate or dark coppery tones look good. ‘Just make sure you go for a shade much brighter than your natural skin tone, you’re aiming to lift and illuminate the face,’ says Shani. Try Too Faced Brightening Blush in Mocha Mi Amore, £14.
• Embrace bronzer. According to Shani, ‘Metallic can be used to add a sheen and highlight cheekbones, or a darker one could be used to contour the face if your skin tone is slightly lighter.’ Try Collection 2000 Shimmering Glow, £2.99, to give your face radiance.

Skincare
• Don’t overload your skin with heavy products – it can create an oil slick. If your skin is dry, shift from a cream to a lotion, and if it’s oily, go for an oil-free lotion to put a stop to shine.
• ‘Facial blotting pads are great for removing excess oil,’ says Shani. ‘They don’t disturb make-up and won’t get cakey.’ The Body Shop Tea Tree Facial Blotting Tissues, £3.90, also help fight zits.
• If your skin is naturally dark it’s easy to assume you don’t need to be careful with sun protection but it’s not true. ‘I’d recommend using at least SPF15,’ says Shani. ‘Bobbi Brown Tinted Moisturiser, £23.49, has one built in, and Garnier Clear Protection Transparent Body Protection Spray, £12.99, is great for the body because it won’t leave white marks.’

Hair
• Whatever your hair type, it’s important to keep it protected in the sun. ‘Hair protection sprays are essential to stop your hair drying out,’ says Shani. Try L’Oréal Solar Sublime Advanced Protection Conditioning Spray, £11.95.
• Afro hair is prone to be dry and brittle. Keep it smooth and shiny with an oil spray like Avlon Keracare Oil Sheen Spray, £5.82.
• ‘If you don’t have any protection spray to hand when you’re sunbathing, spritz some of the SPF spray you’re using on your body into your hair,’ recommends Shani, ‘It’ll protect it and keep it super moisturised.’ Malibu Dry Oil Spray SPF 20, £4.49, is designed to protect your body and scalp and it smells delicious.

Summer makeup trends: easy, simple, bright

Diana Akers of Pine Village has noticed the bright color trend for summer makeup in magazines. But the high glamour look isn't exactly for her.

"I try to go natural," said the 45-year-old woman at Tippecanoe Mall in Lafayette. "I think bright colors look pretty on others, but not me."

The fashion trend of bright colors has finally migrated onto the color palette of cosmetics but has yet to catch on in the Greater Lafayette area. Many women said they don't wear any makeup and those who do prefer the natural look, especially during the summer months.

Diane Boener, co-owner of Merle Norman Cosmetic Studio, said to incorporate the trendy, bright colors and avoid looking overdone, women should pick one feature to play up, such as the lips or eyes.

She said the summer trend isn't a high drama look, but fresh skin with a punch of color.

"Pick one area and emphasize it; don't put trendy colors all over your face," she said.

Penny Smith, northwest Indiana district manager for Avon, said the company is also selling trend-bright cosmetics such as eye shadows in tropical bright pinks, lip gloss in coral and yellow nail polish.

"We are right on with trends, if you look at color trends regarding fashion," she said.

Jana Shoaf, Mary Kay beauty consultant and sales director, had a different perspective on summer makeup trends.

She said the trend for the summer is light, sheer and natural looking for women of all ages -- reminiscent of what most local women interviewed said.

But the bright color trend has popped up in the Mary Kay cosmetic line.

Shoaf said the company just introduced a tinted lip balm with sun protection in sheer shades including a poppy or bright pink color.

She also said mineral powder foundations, eye shadows and blushes are good buys for summer because they are long-lasting, easy to apply and natural-looking.

Kristi Johns prefers to go light for her summer face.

She only wears lip gloss and mascara --to compliment her bronze tan.

"I think in the summer it's not a lot of makeup," said the 30-year-old. "It's easy and simple."

Julie Rehwinkel of Lafayette also felt the magazine look of bright cosmetics was too extreme for her.

"Magazines tend to be far out there -- with bold eyes, really bright greens, and bright blues," said the 36-year-old said. "(It's) not something I think the average person would wear on a daily basis."

Amanda Knight of Indianapolis is one woman who has caught on to the bright color makeup trend.

Her everyday look is a smoky eye with a bright eye shadow, pale lips and bronze skin.

"I love bright colors," said the 25-year-old while donning a shimmery bright purple eye shadow at the mall in Lafayette.

How to make bright makeup colors work

iane Boener, co-owner of Merle Norman Cosmetic Studio in Lafayette and West Lafayette, gives tips for how to use trendy bright colors to create the perfect summer face.

1. Remove any existing makeup.

2. Apply an oil-free moisturizer.

3. If your foundation does not typically last, use a primer (translucent lotion) that forms a barrier between the skin and makeup. It softens and extends the life of the foundation.

4. Apply an oil-free, waterproof liquid powder foundation. A liquid powder foundation goes on like a liquid but dries like a powder, leaving a matte finish, which is great for oily skin.

5. Apply an eye shadow primer to the eyes before applying eye shadow. This will increase the longevity of the eye shadow.

6. Add a neutral eye shadow to the eyelid from the base of lashes to the brow. Keep the color concentrated on the lid.

7. Add a darker neutral, in the same color palette, to the crease of the eye.

8. Apply a third, lighter neutral in the same color palette underneath the brow and into the corner of the eye to keep the eyes bright and lively.

9. Apply eye liner. Use the opposite color of your eyes. For brown eyes, use peaches, greens, purples and plums. For blue eyes, use browns, plums and greens. For large, open eyes, line both the top and bottom lashes. For smaller eyes, line the top lashes and a third of the bottom to keep the eyes open.

10. Apply one thin coat of lash primer.

11. Add two good coats of mascara.

12. For lips, try a brightly colored lipstick such as a vibrant magenta. Add gloss to the center of the lips to make them appear fuller. For daytime wear, don't use lip liner.

13. For cheeks, apply a mineral blush. You want your cheek color to be appear as a natural flush of color. Apply to the apples of the cheek and brush back toward the hairline.

14. To transition this look into a look for evening:

# Add a lip liner in a color that coordinates with the lipstick.

# Use a charcoal gray eye liner to outline the eyes.

# Press a shimmery powder on the ball of the eye lid, over the top of the iris.

# Add a little bit of color to eyebrows. Use a powder that is the same color as your eyebrows to create fuller brows and a more polished look.

HDTV: It's time for the close-up, ready or not

Professional makeup artists have been scrambling to adapt, especially with Friday's formal, government-mandated switch from analog television to digital.

"I've been in television almost 15 years, and HD has become a makeup artist's nightmare," says Unique London, star of BET network's reality segments "Hair & Makeup." "There was a time when the light was forgiving. Once you go digital and high-def, it's great for football games and National Geographic, but not for faces. You can see flaws you didn't even know you had."

Even though it's not their mug on the screen, makeup artists know they'll be judged based on how their clients look, so they've made friends with lighting directors, told stars to stay out of the sun and get their rest, and they're experimenting with new cosmetic products intended for HDTV.

Their tips and the HD-friendly makeup isn't just for insiders, though. Everyone could benefit from a little better blending and brands such as MAC, Cargo and Make Up For Ever are selling their new, camera-friendly formulas to consumers too. Why not? Most women aren't going to quibble with things that promise them a more flawless appearance.

Also, adds Emmy award-winning artist Marie DelPrete, the public largely develops the standards of beauty based on its celebrities. "Consumers get their ideas from how things look on TV, in films and magazines. ... TV and film is very much a dictator of how we view vanity."

Eventually, she says, Hollywood will master HD, and therefore set the bar higher for everyone else, but in the meantime expect shadows, wrinkles, dark spots and redness.

"Actors who golf, for example, have to be on high alert. The high-definition camera is going to gravitate to the redness they pick up in the sun," DelPrete says. "I was watching a home-improvement show and this guy looked like his nose was on fire! In person, it might have only been a little red."

The new cameras capture a picture three to four times sharper than standard video film, says Nick Gavrelis, vice president of global development at MAC. The focus of the makeup must be on the texture of the skin - you need the perfect canvas, he explains.

"You want makeup to be moisturizing, sheer and in thin layers," Gavrelis advises, singling out MAC's Mineralize Skinfinish/Natural baked face powder. It's smooth and spreadable with a matte finish, he explains, but also uses micronized mica, silicone and wheatgerm oil to give dimension the skin and not leave it flat looking the way heavy powder or old-school pancake makeup would.

Anything that shines - be it frost or shimmer makeup - will appear wet and accentuate wrinkles, warns DelPrete. But anything too matte will appear very dry and flaky.